Category Archives: Getaways

Spirit chasing in the California desert

Some say he was a star/but he was just a country boy/his simple songs confess/and the music he had in him/so very few possess

'Joshua Tree Trip"

Room at the Inn

Like many a pilgrim before us, we finally made it to the Joshua Tree Inn, where we spent the night in the very room where the life of cosmic country rock pioneer Gram Parsons ended when he was just 26.

The original plan was to stay at the kitschy motel in Pioneertown where the Western movie stars used to stay in the 1940s while filming B pictures out there in the desert – but that place recently closed down.   That almost derailed our plan to drive all the way out to the Mojave to see an L.A. roots rock band with the genius to call itself Dawes, which was playing at the Pioneertown roadhouse Pappy & Harriets, a magnet for the crazy little music scene out there. 

But when I called the Joshua Tree Inn and they offered me Room 8, I sensed that it was meant to be. Both Billy and I have been Gram fans forever, and we even met at The Palomino, which used to hold an annual tribute on Gram’s birthday.  I’m pleased to report that things couldn’t be any nicer out there at the Joshua Tree Inn for Gram. There’s a very cool, respectful vibe, and you can definitely feel his spirit everywhere.  Photos, posters, mementos and a music player with a stack of his CDs are set out in the room, and there’s a red leather-bound, heart-stamped guest book where people leave their sentiments, drawings, and ghost stories. There’s even a shrine in the sand outside the motel room door, with a message that reads “Gram – Safe At Home” (after the title of his first album with the Int’l Submarine Band) surrounded by candles, feathers, Indian amulets, glass beads, tiny tequila bottles, sunglasses and guitar picks.  People say the room is haunted, and that the big round mirror opposite the bed moves for no reason – I didn’t see that, but the ceiling fan did come on by itself in the middle of the night for a while.

Some people leave tequila shots out here

One person who had recently stayed in the room and signed the book was guitarist Jock Bartley, who played with Gram’s band for a couple of months in 1973 right at the end. He wrote that he was with Phil Kaufman in L.A. when they got the terrible news that Gram wasn’t coming back from the desert.   There was a home-burned “Live in 1973” CD in the stack; we put it on, and when Gram’s band The Fallen Angels was introduced, Jock was mentioned as the guitar player.  Emmylou was singing with the band that night, too.

Barker Dam hike in Joshua Tree Nat'l Park

Remember “Boulder to Birmingham,” Emmylou’s tribute song after Gram’s death?  I thought of it when were out in Joshua Tree National Park, watching the sun go down from Keys View peak on the first “long day” of 2010.  An icy cold wind kicked up as the sun dropped, but Billy and I found shelter huddled against a low wall, and watched the deepening colors. It was gorgeous. 

“The last time I felt like this/I was in the wilderness/and the canyon was on fire”

Somewhere around there, Gram’s body was cremated, but we didn’t seek out the spot. Driving back in the inky blackness, what track popped on in Billy’s CD player but “In My Hour of Darkness,” which I quote lyrics from at the top of this blog entry. The music sounded blazingly clear and alive in the dry desert air. It was the tribute album, but I swear I heard Gram drop in to sing a verse.

As for Pappy & Harriet’s, it reminded me strongly of a typical Austin music hang, or a roadhouse in Alabama where I went to college.  Instead of gravel, the parking lot is made of desert sand, and there are Joshua trees growing right outside the door. Inside, it’s a rambling, rustic place, with the stage on one side, a room full of pool tables on the other, and a bar and kitchen in the middle.   The food is supposedly great, but the kitchen was closed so we had to make do with chips and salsa. The drinks are priced like in Texas – $2 each for cold draft beers, and the cover was $10 for three bands.  Dawes was loud and good, with a fun crowd of fans who’d mostly driven out from L.A. to see them, even though they had just played the Troubadour last week.  They told me they’re named after their grandfather, whose name was Dawes Goldsmith (two of the guys are brothers named Goldsmith), and they signed my CD “To the real Dawes.”

That and the T-shirt were worth the trip.  Out back of P&H’s, I saw two big patios with picnic tables.  where you can also hear the music.  That’s clearly where the scene is in the summer time, and I hope to find out on another occasion after the mercury rises.

Meanwhile, here are more of the pictures that Billy took.  What an eye, what an eye!  Please leave a comment if you have anything to add.

A pilgrim’s tribute

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Filed under Americana, Getaways, Hiking, Roots Rock, Uncategorized

Blue Hawaii

WaterWaimanalo

LA Explored has been in Hawaii for a spell, where the island waves and breezes quelled all industrious intentions, and an all-media sabbatical prevailed.  Aaaahhhh.  Given that Los Angeles is the closest big city to the 50th state, is it fair to post a few vacation images?  I have always wished we were even closer, but as someone pointed out to me, it takes no more time to get there than driving to San Francisco, or to Mammoth (about five and a half hours).  We took Delta, which dings you $20 each way for each checked bag, but sort of makes up for it by providing personal entertainment systems, which rock. I caught up on movies I’ve missed – including The Soloist, which is a very L.A.-centric movie about the friendship between L.A. Times columnist Steve Lopez and a gifted, Julliard-trained but mentally fragile street musician, Nathaniel Ayers, who was homeless when they met. It stars Robert Downey Jr. and Jamie Foxx. I liked the movie because it was very realistic about the causes and challenges of homelessness, and while this made it less than a fairy tale, it also made it more worthwhile.  For comic relief I watched some of The Hangover, but we were landing before they even got to Vegas.

Not the boat I stayed on, but close to it.

Not the boat I stayed on, but close to it.

 

We spent the whole time on Oahu, which was a treat because we had time to really explore it.  The weather was tropical – sometimes sweltering. For the first week, I lived on a sailboat in a marina in Honolulu.  It was on the airport side, and giant planes flew overhead regularly, which sounds like a minus but was actually kind of thrilling.  Waking up early to see the morning light on the water and having coffee on the deck was great – and the best part was when we actually took the boat out on the ocean, sailing past Waikiki and Diamond Head.

Our skipper reefs the mainsail.

Our skipper reefs the mainsail.

 

The boat, a 42-foot ketch, is the full-time residence of my friend’s son Roman, who’s just starting his marine biology studies at the University of Hawaii and is already a DJ at the college radio station.  When he learned that I’m an entertainment journalist in L.A., he wanted to know if I’ve ever met Snoop Dogg.  I can’t say that I have.

 

When my husband was able to join us, we moved to a vacation rental near the beach in a little town called Waimanalo, which is on the windward side of the island, reached by taking an extremely scenic drive along the coast from Honolulu of about half an hour (you pass the big snorkeling bay, and the beach where From Here to Eternity was filmed).   Billy – known in the blog world as The 99 Cent Chef – was thrilled that the main street of this tiny town featured Keneke’s, a plate lunch stand that draws people from all over the island. Keneke I was more impressed with the beach, a nearly deserted five-mile stretch of white powder and heavenly water, just a short walk down the lane from our house.   We swam and kayaked, and among other highlights, hiked Diamond Head (surprisingly strenuous, but with a dazzling payoff), hiked Manoa Falls (Jurassic Park-like), explored Chinatown (great tip: the happy hour at art gallery/scene bar thirtyninehotel, with artisan cocktails and live music on the sultry rooftop lanai), went to a Wailers concert (Bob Marley music) at the Waikiki Shell, learned about Hawaiian history and natural history at the fantastic Bishop Museum, and poked around on the North Shore, where we snorkled with the huge green sea turtles at Turtle Beach, ate from the shrimp trucks (I think Macky’s is the best) and sampled the shave ice at Matsumo’s grocery. 

The beach at Waimanalo.

The beach at Waimanalo.

Behind the counter with the shave ice guy at Matsumoto Grocery.

Behind the counter with the shave ice guy at Matsumoto Grocery.

Out front, Matsumoto shave ice mecca on North Shore.

Out front, Matsumoto shave ice mecca on North Shore.

 

I wish I could go on reminiscing, but the real world waits

Hawaii Theater in Chinatown - Film Festival opening night.
Hawaii Theater in Chinatown – Film Festival opening night.
Beach at Waimanalo, looking south.

Beach at Waimanalo, looking south.

PinkPlumeriaSurfboardimpatiently.  Enjoy the pics!

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Filed under Getaways, Uncategorized